Scott Reitz reviewed Rapscallion: Boulevardier's new sister restaurant does Southern cooking with a twist, "refus[ing] to adhere to the rules that bind similarly themed restaurants." Standout dishes include chicken that's "flash fried to order and draped in a mala sauce with a light prick of Sichuan pepper;" the Chinese theme continues with fried sorghum, "basically a dressy take (complete with tempura egg) on the fried rice normally dished from paper boxes." For slightly more conventional Southern fare, look to perfectly fried catfish with greens and clams. Fair warning: The dining room is constantly packed, so prepare to wait — but Reitz seems to think it's worth it. [Dallas Observer]
Filling in for Leslie Brenner, Lawson Taitte checked out Hickory: Kent Rathbun's newest restaurant in Plano "looks more like a sports bar than a rib shack," but you'll find some mighty fine barbecue here. Fatty, pepper-crusted Wagyu brisket "is umami bliss, the texture silken," and housemade sausage and smoked pork loin are worthy too. The burgers are less impressive, however, as they came more done than requested and suffer from brioche buns that are "cottony and a bit too sweet." It's probably safe to skip dessert, which included a soggy-crusted pie. Two stars. [Dallas Morning News]
ELSEWHERE: The Observer chowed down on kimchi fries at BBBop; Fort Worth Weekly found "elevated takeout" at Local Foods Kitchen; SideDish taste-tested guacamole; DFW.com hunted down the Metroplex's best veggie burgers.