Leslie Brenner Raves About Remedy; Front Room Tavern’s New Chef Gets High Marks

It’s hard to believe that Remedy, Chef Danyele McPherson’s comfort food spot on Lower Greenville, has already been around long enough for two reviews from the Dallas Morning News’ Leslie Brenner. In her first review of the restaurant, filed in March 2015, Brenner found plenty to love, but noted some pretty major kitchen execution issues, and assigned Remedy just two stars.

After praising a tediously-crafted cocktail from barman Mate Hartai, Brenner takes McPherson to task for too-sweet desserts and “chewy” beet-cured salmon. Otherwise, though, it looks as if Remedy has turned it all around:

When it comes to the main-event part of the menu, McPherson has deliciously departed from her earlier straightforward takes on American classics. She seems to be having much more fun in the kitchen; her plates are much more expressive and presentations more appealing. Her "hobo dinner" is a case in point: An arc of tender, flavorful cubes of short rib mingled with Brussels sprouts and sweet, lightly charred petals of pearl onion face a battalion of glossy dots of horseradish cream. Nashville-style hot fried chicken is very much in vogue at the moment (they serve it across Greenville Avenue at Rapscallion); McPherson gives it a French spin by swapping confit duck for the chicken, and it's crisply, hotly delicious.

Three stars.

The Dallas Observer’s Cody Neathery scoped out Front Room Tavern, a concept that’s definitely seen a little tumult (think chef shuffles and reconcepting) in the past year or so. Under Chef Taylor Kearney, Front Room Tavern has found its footing. In addition to excellent entrees and a solid bar program, Kearney's charcuterie program was particularly of note.

At the former Joule restaurant, Charlie Palmer, he was in charge of the charcuterie and dry-aging program and that experience shines through at the Front Room with a meat board that easily rivals other top Dallas charcuterie. The Louisiana barbecue shrimp is not sopped in sauce as is common but lightly brushed with a mild hot sauce that has more flavor than heat, with the jumbo shrimp sitting on a bed of cornbread salad, turnips and mustard greens. The deviled eggs come with traditional filling topped with crisp leeks and pickled shallot. Preserving was a childhood hobby of Kearney's, and he believes in pickling every vegetable within arm’s reach. Each one has a touch of sweet and sour without being overwhelming.

Elsewhere, D Magazine critic Eve Hill-Agnus checked out a collaborative kitchen in the Cedars District for Dallas Innovates, the magazine’s collaboration with the Dallas Chamber that highlights innovative businesses, nonprofits, and initiatives. In a small commercial kitchen, healthy bistro and lunch delivery service Marie’s Mantle shares space with Absinthe Lounge and baker David Madrid of Wheat & Sour. It’s a fascinating story of how the three unique concepts make their collaboration work, and definitely worth a read.