It’s been just shy of a month since Voodoo Doughnut opened its first Dallas location in Lower Greenville. The Portland company known for its over-the-top stoner doughnuts is consistently among Portland’s best. Its opening in Big D caused such a furor that lines were around the corner on opening day. The crowds have died down a bit, but not completely. Pro-tip: There is a to-go counter where you can place an order in advance and skip the line. Use it.
On a rainy Saturday evening, around 6 p.m., there was still a line out, and folks hopping out at the valet stand at Via Triozzi next door were stopping to ooh and ahh at its menu, posted in the window — and to see what all the commotion was about. After all, they’re just doughnuts...right?
This visit was timed to be in the evening, so I wouldn’t necessarily get the fresh in the morning best stuff. This doughnut shop is open until midnight, so there’s an expectation that the doughnuts will be as good at any time of the day. Folks working the counter assembled orders from the trays behind them with doughnuts in varying degrees of freshness. So, it’s the luck of the draw at any time whether or not you get a warm, fresh one or something that’s been sitting there for an hour.
The order was for half a dozen, and I ate a bite of each immediately and reserved some for the following day to see how well the doughnuts would hold up.
The order: Apple fritter, classic glazed, maple bacon bar (named Greatest Yeast Donut in America by the Underground Donut Tour), Portland cream (a Bavarian creme-filled doughnut with chocolate icing and a set of eyes that are always watching you), vicious hibiscus (a plain doughnut with hibiscus frosting and chocolate sprinkles), and chocolate coconut cake
The good: Trying the classic is a good baseline to see how the product at a bakery is. It was a solid, plain old doughnut. The cake doughnut was okay at first bite and held its consistency best the next day. It stayed fresh and moist.
The great: That apple fritter was warm out of the oven. Maybe one of the best I’ve ever had. The maple bacon lived up to its promise.
The not-so-great: I wanted to like the hibiscus more than I did. The heaviness and sweetness of the icing defeated the purpose of a light flavor like hibiscus, as did the chocolate sprinkles. The Portland cream was entirely too much icing on top of the doughnut, and weirdly a perfect amount inside. Overall, the doughnuts are iced with a heavy hand, so go wild if that’s your thing. If not, proceed with caution.
Also, not-so-great is the company’s recent record with its workers. Workers at Voodoo in Portland officially unionized in September 2022 after organizing during the pandemic. The company reportedly began firing employees during a 2021 summer heat wave for walking out protesting working conditions. The National Labor Relations Board found that the company illegally fired those employees.
The verdict: Would eat the fritter again without hesitancy. Otherwise, this is a special occasion stop.