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The amount of excellent food available in Dallas is dizzying, yet mediocre meals somehow keep worming their way into our lives. With your Eater Dallas editor dining out frequently, that means coming across lots of standout dishes and drinks that need to be shared.
Stillwell’s in the Hotel Swexan
2575 McKinnon St., Dallas
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I’ve been aching to try a steak from the Harwood beef program since Kevin Gray wrote about it for Eater Dallas a few months ago — and when Harwood Hospitality announced it was opening Stillwell’s in the Hotel Swexan, I knew that was going to be the move. Pictured is the 12-ounce dry-aged strip served with Stillwell’s steak sauce. I paired it with a not pictured classic, the loaded baked potato, and the celery root pave. The medium-rare steak was juicy and tender, and I used the steak sauce and a bearnaise sauce as accouterments. The celery root pave is a delightful mixture of textures and robust flavor — it is savory and crisp with soft caramelized onions and loads of cheese on top.
I also sampled a few other not pictured dishes and strongly recommend the beef dumpling, which is meat-filled and so rich that it almost tastes like chocolate. The deviled eggs with candied bacon and yellowfin tuna with Fresno chiles are also remarkable.
Billy Can Can
2386 Victory Park Ln., Dallas
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This Victory Park favorite is revamping its menu as it moves towards celebrating five years in business. If it’s been a minute since your last visit, now is the time to return. Pictured here are a few items from the appetizers that blew me away. The snapper crudo pairs fresh, fantastic fish with biting peppers and is almost addictive. The Texas Venison Tartare takes all the elements of a beef tartare and makes it gamey with wild meat. It’s still soft and tender, but not quite the same — worth ordering.
I also enjoyed the red snapper with saffron mashed potatoes, served with roasted grapes and a leek salsa verde.
Street’s Fine Chicken
5211 Forest Ln #108, Dallas
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A hankering for fried chicken took me to Street’s one lunchtime in June and oh my good gracious. The crispy, flaky crust on top of that succulent chicken was great, as were the greens, the mac and cheese, and that blessed salty but sweet biscuit.
Meridian
5650 Village Glen Dr., Dallas
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A weekend trip to Meridian found me in front of a plate of pork medallions served on a bed of purple hull peas that weren’t quite creamed but were well on their way there, along with various charred peppers and a smattering of nasturtium. It was full of big flavors but also a dish light enough for summer.
Tupelo Honey
5981 High Point Dr., Suite 160, Irving
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This Asheville cafe opened its second location in DFW, up in Las Colinas. It was my first time there and the first chance to try its signature dish, the hot chicken served on mac and cheese waffles with a generous helping of the housemade ranch. I also enjoyed the spicy cauliflower bites, with a kick that comes in at just the right time, and the fried green tomatoes served on a bed of grits.